Engine Hook Pulley

Engine Hook Pulley

Despite the variety of flexible-impeller pumps in service, most share many construction similarities. Removing the end cover (four to six screws) will expose the impeller. Almost all impellers are a sliding fit on the driveshaft, either with splines, square keys, Woodruff keys, one or two flats on the shaft, or a slotted shaft. If an impeller puller is not available, use a pair of needle nose pliers or Vise-Grips to grip the impeller and pull it out. Some impellers are sealed to their shafts, with O-rings; most are not. If the impeller will nct come loose, it may be one of the few locked in place with a setscrew (Allen screw; in particular, some Volvo Penta engines). On some of these, you can pull out the impeller far enough (1/2 inch) to release the screw, but if the screw is inaccessible, you must disassemble the drive side of the impeller and knock the impeller out on its shaft.

The impeller vanes should have rounded tips (not worn flat) and show no signs of swelling, distortion. or cracking of the vanes, or any kind of set (bend). if in doubt, replace the impeller. If an O-ring is fitted to the shaft, check it for damage. If the impeller has a tapered metal sleeve on its inner end (extended insert impellers), inspect the sleeve and discard the impeller if there is any sign of a step where the sleeve-slides into the shaft seal.

If it is necessary to remove the cam (e.g., to replace a wear plate), loosen the cam retaining screw, tap the screw until the cam breaks loose, then remove the screw and cam Clean all surfaces of sealing compound.

Some impellers have a wear plate at the back of the pump chamber. If fitted, the plate can be hooked out with a piece of bent wire. Note the notch in its top; this aligns with a dowel in the pump body. If the wear plate is grooved or scored, replace it. There are three types of shaft seals:

I. Lip-type seals, which press into the pump housing and have a rubber lip that grips the shaft.

2. Carbon-ceramic seals, in which a ceramic disc with a smooth face seats in a rubber boot in the pump housing. A springloaded carbon disc, also with a smooth face, is sealed to the pump shaft with a rubber sleeve or O-ring. The spring holds the carbon disc against the ceramic disc, and the extremely smooth faces of the two provide a seal.

3. An external stuffing box (packing gland), which is the same as a propeller-shaft stuffing box. These are not very common.

Although it's possible to hook out and replace some carbon-ceramic seals with the shaft still in place (this cannot be done with lip-type seals), in most cases the shaft must be taken out. To do this, take apart the drive end of the shaft. First unbolt the marine pump from its engine or remove the drive pulley (if it's belt driven); then proceed as follows:

If the pump has a seal at the drive end of the shaft, hook it out. When removing any seals, be extremely careful not to scratch the seal seat. You will usually find a bearing retaining circlip behind the seal in the body of the pump (pumps bolted directly to an engine housing may not have one). Remove the circlip, flexing it the minimum amount necessary to get it out. If it gets bent, it should be replaced rather than straightened and reused.

Support the pump body on a couple of blocks of wood and tap out the shaft, hitting it on its impeller end. Be especially careful not to burr or flatten the end of the shaft. It is best to use a block of wood between the hammer and the shaft, rather than to hit the shaft directly.

If the shaft won't move, take another look for a bearing-retaining circlip. If there truly isn't one, try hitting a little harder. If the shaft remains stuck, try heating the pump body in the area of the bearing with hot water or gentle use of a propane torch. The shaft will come out complete with bearings.

The main shaft seal can now be picked out from the impeller side of the body using a piece of bent wire. There may be another bearing seal on the drive side, and quite probably a slinger washer between the two. If the washer drops down inside the body, retrieve it through the drain slot.

To remove the bearings from the shaft, take the small bearing-retaining circlip off the shaft, support the assembly with a couple of blocks of wood placed under the inner bearing race, and tap out the shaft, hitting it on its drive end.

Inspect the shaft for signs of wear, especially in the area of the shaft seal. Spin the bearings and discard them if they are rough, uneven, or if the outer race is loose. Scrupulously clean the pump body, paying special attention to all seal and bearing seats. Do not scratch bearing, seal, or seating surfaces.

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